Fight Against Distracted Driving

After the tragic death of her husband Milt – Louise Olin acts to End Distracted Driving

In late October 2016, I spoke to 400 local LA high school students about the dangers of Distracted Driving. The room went silent as I told the story of a how my husband, Milt Olin was killed by a Distracted Driver. When I revealed to the students that the Distracted Driver was an on-duty LA County Sheriff Deputy, there was an audible gasp in the auditorium.


This message is vital to saving lives

Almost 3 years later, with the creation of the Milt Olin Foundation I am committed to building a movement to stop this deadly epidemic. This tragedy changed my life and my two son’s lives forever.  As I struggle through my days without Milt – the beloved, dynamic epicenter of my family, I find meaning and purpose in sharing my story.  It helps people to understand how a few seconds of distraction can make the difference between life and death.


We are all vulnerable to the misbehaviors of a Distracted Driver

The #HandsOff Movement unites cyclists, pedestrians, passengers, and drivers in a way that can make a difference in changing dangerous driving habits caused by the addiction to our mobile phones.


Distracted Driving is everyone’s concern

It’s imperative that we all join the Movement Against Distracted Driving to make our roads safer so others don’t have to lose their lives or be injured by the thoughtlessness of a Distracted Driver.


How you can Help

We need your donation to continue building on the #HandsOff Movement today, here on GoFundMe!

Your donation will immediately go towards programs to grow the #HandsOff movement to end Distracted Driving which are highlighted in our video. Please join the #HandsOff Movement with your donation & support?



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5 ways to improve your cycling endurance

Boost your endurance on the bike to ride long distances with ease.

Knowing you’re able to ride as long as your route, riding mates or imagination requires is a very powerful feeling. Conversely, feeling dread about passing the one-hour, two-hour or three-hour point will limit your training and fitness gains, and ultimately your enjoyment.


1. Think about your fuel

To really have good endurance you need to make the most of your internal reserves. These are glycogen (carbohydrate) in the muscles and liver, glucose in the blood stream, triglycerides (fats) stored in the muscles and that all-important biggest store of fuel: body fat.

So which of these fuel tanks is most responsible for keeping you riding? Well, it won’t be a lack of fats, lactic acid overload or a lack of oxygen that makes you get off the bike. Instead, running out of muscle glycogen, low liver glycogen or low blood glucose levels is what will stop you in your tracks. One or all three of these will cause the infamous ‘bonk’, ‘wall’ or ‘the knock’.


2. Increase your carbohydrate intake

To elongate your endurance you need to make sure that before long rides you have one or two days where you ensure that carbohydrate foods are eaten every three hours, with plenty of water consumed with each meal. This carbo-loading helps you stock up with muscle glycogen, but only if you ride very easy on these days. Carbo-loading but hammering short, sharp rides because you feel good does not maximise glycogen.



3. Eat an early pre-ride breakfast

Even starting with your glycogen stores stocked up does not guarantee you maximal endurance. The morning of the ride you should get an early breakfast of carbs, protein and fat around two to three hours before you head out.

Eat too close, say an hour before, and you’ll reduce rather than increase your endurance. So, either get up early or drink a carb-rich drink as you leave the house to start riding.


4. Stay topped up throughout your ride

Aim for 200 to 400 calories in liquid or solid form but know (by trying them out on training rides ahead of the main event) that they sit well on your stomach. If you are confident that your levels are high, you can start a ride fasted, but you need to feed religiously every 20 minutes or you will crash soon after missing one or two feeds. Aim for around 60 grams of carbs per hour during the ride as an estimate.

Researchers in the USA have shown that consuming 15g honey or glucose taken every 10 miles during a 64km ride improves performance compared to water alone. Riders with the high glycaemic glucose and low glycaemic honey got home 2.75 minutes earlier, having averaged almost 40 watts more output over the last 10 miles compared to water drinking-only riders.

If you find you regularly get dropped at the end of rides and have been riding on water alone, this research is especially for you!


5. Train your body for endurance

To really get the most from your body, start in the weeks, or rather months, beforehand with regular riding to make your body fitter and better at using its fat stores. Fit riders use higher amounts of fats and are more efficient at stretching out carbohydrate reserves. Use this simple reminder about what makes you fitter: A B C. That is, Aerobic riding four to six hours a week, Breakfast-less rides for up to two hours to make your body fat-burning savvy, and Consistency.

Teaching your body to go longer is a talent that is earned. If you do have a tendency to do too much, then lose motivation, ride yourself into illness or always feel you’re the only person who never seems to progress, take heart. Almost anyone can extend their endurance and achieve 100k, 100 miles or more. You may not set a competition record along the way but you can still make the distance.

Consistent riding gives you improved endurance and better use of fats. Once you start to increase your longest ride, the challenge is to set a bigger goal every second or third week. By taking yourself physically and mentally into new time-zones you experience the feeding, pacing and fatigue tests that new horizons bring. Choose riding buddies with a similar or higher stamina and stay close together so you can encourage each other.




10-point maintenance check for your road bike

Good advice from

The bits that many people overlook

Despite road bikes being a relatively simple mechanical device, many cyclists focus on just one or two areas when it comes to maintenance check. They might be fastidious about keeping their bike clean and well lubed, or making sure their gears and brakes work properly, but many other maintenance tasks are often abandoned until something breaks or fails.



Even seemingly well-maintained bikes often hide spoiled headset bearings. They sit inside your head tube and are likely to suffer the torture test of your sweat dripping with every hot day of riding, and are likely to corrode.

To prevent this, remove your stem and drop the fork out of the frame. This is easiest with the bike on the ground. Newer frames will have sealed bearings, which just need a thin coat of grease on the surfaces. Put it all back together and torque to spec.

If you’ve let it go too far and the bearings feel rough, you must now try to source the right replacement headset bearing (that’s a whole different article).

This is also a perfect time to inspect your fork steerer for any signs of stress or damage. Be sure to check close to where the bearing races contact and where the stem clamps.


Gear cables

Gear cables can get kinked and fray, leaving you on the road without shifting. This is especially true for older 9- and 10-speed Shimano groups where the gear cable is external. These cables are constantly bent in the shifter and become weak over time.

Assuming you have external cable routing (likely given the age of these shifters), shift the relevant derailleur onto the largest cog. Now, with the chain holding the derailleur in this position, stop moving the cranks and click the shifter all the way down the opposite way — this will release all tension from the cable and allow you to pull it free from its guides. Poke the cable out of the shifter and check for any signs of fraying or kinks — replace if dubious.

If there is no kink to be found, drip some dry chain lube on that inner cable and work it through the housing segments.



So many cyclists will repair or service nearly everything yet ignore their pedals — even moving old, clapped-out pedals across to a brand new bike.

Watch for loosening bearings and of course worn cleats. Many pedals can be tightened or serviced to keep them spinning smoothly, but a worn cleat surface on the pedal body cannot be fixed, and the off-axis movement this causes can lead to knee pain and other issues. For example, older Look Keo pedals without a metal contact surface would wear in this manner.




Despite the common belief that a good freewheeling noise is a sign of quality, most freehubs shouldn’t sound like a Harley. If your hub has gotten noisier over time, it’s likely that it’s dry or dirty and needs some attention.

With the right instructions and tools (usually Allen keys and/or cone spanners, and sometimes a bench vice) this isn’t a hard or long job. Just be sure to read up on the process for your hub before starting, and be careful not to drop small parts.

Many quality brands will specify their own lubes. To ensure you don’t get chain droop or drops, it’s usually best to stick with the recommended lube. If in doubt, go with a thin grease or thick oil, standard grease will often cause drag and sticking.



Keeping your chain clean and well lubed is certainly crucial, but don’t forget to measure for wear every so often.

To give an extreme example, many pro teams replace their chains every 1,000km, so that over three seasons they very rarely wear out cassettes or chainrings. Of course it doesn’t make sense for everyday riders to change their chains this often, but it does give you an idea that if you replace your chain often enough, you’ll get plenty of life out of the rest of your drivetrain.

There are plenty of chain checkers on the market and they all work in roughly the same way, providing a rough guide on when to replace a chain. Personally, I use either a Park CC-3.2 or a Feedback Sports Digital Chain Gauge (it’s highly accurate but quite expensive).



Derailleur hanger

It’s easy to bend the soft alloy derailleur hangers on modern road bikes and so, if your shifting is not perfect, check whether your derailleur hanger is straight.

If your bike ever falls derailleur-side down (whether you’re on it or not at the time), you should always check that the derailleur hasn’t been hit or knocked out of line. Otherwise you could be pulling the chain out of your spokes before you know it.

If you’re keen to do it yourself, the Park Tool DAG-2 is one of the most affordable and trusted hanger tools on the market. Brands such as X-Tool and LifeLine make cheaper versions too.



Checking your tires between rides may pre-empt the dreaded roadside puncture.

Look for cuts or tears in the tread and sidewalls. If your tire is getting flat in the center, then it’s probably worn. Any protruding glass or wire must be removed, and if the tire is punctured through the casing, consider replacing it.

Personally, I have a maximum three flats per tire rule; after that the tire gets chucked.


Brake pads

Brake pads have wear indicators, so it’s easy to see if they have life left in them, but are they wearing evenly and still contacting the rim square?

If not, you can use a coarse file to get a little more life out of unevenly worn pads. Once you’ve squared them off, readjust the pads so that they contact the rim correctly.

On a similar note, your levers should have a light feel and not need excessive force to pull the brake. If they do, consider replacing your brake cables and giving the caliper a service.


Loose and rattling parts

Rattles and creaks can be avoided and while some can be a pain to find, most of the time it’s the simplest of things causing them.

To start, check for loose bottle cage bolts and jingling items in your saddle bag. It’s astonishing how often bikes have a slightly loose bottle cage.

Other common causes of rattling are loose cassettes, hubs or headsets. Rattling shifters is another, but can be harder to fix depending on the model, make or issue.

Chainring bolts can work themselves loose and easily disguise themselves as a creaking bottom bracket or pedal.

Tools for chainring bolts vary. Some brands need a 6mm and/or 5mm hex wrench, others now use Torx-30 and need a chainring bolt tool on the back — the Park Tool CNW-2 is a cheap and effective option.



Bar tape

Too many cyclists ride with ripped, torn or old and compressed bar tape. It’s cheap to replace and, like new tires, brings new life to any bike.

Another important reason to replace your bar tape occasionally is it gives you a chance to safety check your handlebar for cracks or corrosion.

Before you replace the tape, consider doing new cables too — they are tucked beneath it and replacing the bar tape is just as time-consuming as replacing cable.


Good advice from

New Protected Bike Lanes in Store for Union Street


City receives Metro grant to eventually create ten new bicycle corridors


Dramatic changes are around the corner for Pasadena’s ever-growing legion of urban cyclists.


The city has just been awarded a $2,714,430 Metro grant for phase one of a east-west, two-way cycle track, as part of a protected corridor on Union Street, from Hill Avenue to Arroyo Parkway. As part of the new “road diet” — the lessening of lanes to include bike lanes — fourteen intersections on Union Street will eventually be upgraded with new bicycle signal heads in both directions from Hill Street to Arroyo Parkway, along with the installation of protected left turn pockets for vehicles, as part of the track.


Solid concrete barriers will also be constructed between the cycle track and the travel lanes, so that parked cars will actually protect cyclists from moving traffic. The service area for the new project will include Pasadena City College, Caltech, the Playhouse District, the Central District and Old Pasadena.


According to a presentation at Pasadena Presbyterian Church Tuesday by Rich Dilluvio, senior transportation planner and Pasadena’s pedestrian and bicycle coordinator, the new track is the beginning of what will eventually be ten new bicycle corridors throughout the city. The new corridors are part of the City’s Bicycle Transportation Action Plan, approved as part of the Mobility Element of the city’s General Plan, in August of last year.

New Protected Bike Lanes in Store for Pasadena’s Union Street from Pasadena Now on Vimeo.



Phase II of the program will extend the track itself from Hill out to Wilson Avenue, and will also include a bicycle boulevard on Holliston Avenue, with two new signalized intersections to more easily connect the Union Street cycle track to bike lanes on Cordova Street.


The overall creation of new bike lines throughout the state was initiated in September 2008 with the passage of Assembly Bill 1358, the “California Complete Streets Act.”


“In order to fulfill the commitment to reduce greenhouse gas emissions, make the most efficient use of urban land and transportation infrastructure, and improve public health by encouraging physical activity,” the act states, “transportation planners must find innovative ways to reduce vehicle miles traveled and to shift from short trips in the automobile to biking, walking and use of public transit,”


The legislation also added that, “Commencing January 1, 2011, upon any substantial revision of the circulation element, the legislative body shall modify the circulation element to plan for a balanced, multimodal transportation network that meets the needs of all users of the streets, roads, and highways for safe and convenient travel in a manner that is suitable to the rural, suburban, or urban context of the general plan.”


In other words, get California motorists out of their cars.


Transportation Department staff estimate that a Letter of Agreement to initiate the project funding, which will include a local match of $684,613, will be ready to present to City Council in early Fall of this year. Following the approval of the funding, environmental clearances will commence, followed by design engineering.


Actual marketing and advertising for the project is scheduled to begin in February 2021, with construction beginning in June 2021.


“Anyone of these scheduled dates could also come sooner,” added Dilluvio.


Union Street currently has one three lanes of westbound one-way traffic. The new project will eliminate one lane to make room for the protected track. According to Dilluvio, Union Street was selected for the project since it is “under-utilized,” he said, with apeak volume of 700 cars and room for 2400. Once the road diet is completed, explained Dilluvio, the street would still have capacity for 1500 cars.

16 Ways Tour de France Mechanics Keep the Peloton Rolling


The mechanics of the Tour work hard and work fast to make sure the riders bikes are perfect. Here are 16 secrets that help them achieve trouble-free racing.


Eagle eyes

Leaving nothing to chance, a Cannondale-Drapac mechanic checks the tires on Tom Jelte Slagter’s bike for stones embedded in the tread before the start of Stage 4. The path to the sign-in prior to the stage was covered in small stones, and the mechanic wanted to ensure Slagte’s bike was ready to race from kilometer zero.


Fast Air

One of the Lampre-Merida mechanics uses a hand-held air compressor to top off tires prior to the start of a stage. Several teams had the hand-held Bosch units shown, which has been discontinued. A similar product from Craftsman will cost you about $120, with battery and charger.


Pressure Check

The one thing I saw mechanics fussing over more than anything before the start of a stage was tire pressure. Movistar mechanic Tomás Amezaga uses a Topeak SmartGauge D2 to check tire pressure one last time before the riders roll to the start of the next stage.



Last-Minute Fix
Over at the Astana truck, a rider and mechanic make a quick adjustment before the start of a stage. I saw this same scene play out several times, at several team trucks: In the Tour’s high-pressure environment, many riders are hyper-sensitive to any sound or feeling—real or imagined—that might indicate something is wrong with the bike.


Be the Bike Stand
Prior to the start of stage three, the mechanics of Bora-Argon 18 give Andreas Schillinger’s drivetrain a quick check. There are no work stands set up at a stage start: Most of the work on the bikes happens after the end of the previous stage, or in the morning before the teams drive to the next stage’s start area. Without a stand available, the mechanics themselves must become a stand for quick fixes.


Wrap, and Wrap Again
Romain Bardet has some unique handlebar preferences. Not only is his bar position odd, he also has very specific taste in tape. Team sponsor Fizik makes three handlebar tape thicknesses: Superlight (2mm), Endurance (2.5mm), and Performance (3mm). Bardet, however, prefers a double wrap of Superlight tape, which means double the work for his mechanics.


Looking Good
The Tour de France was invented to sell stuff, specifically newspapers. It’s no different today: The Tour is a giant parade of advertising. Team sponsors want their money’s worth, and the teams work hard to ensure sponsor logos are clean and visible. Here is an Ag2r mechanic applying fresh new decals to a Zipp 404.


Covering Up
The spare bikes on top of the team cars are often the previous year’s primary race bikes (if they’re in good shape). Last year, the team riding Trek bikes was simply known as Trek Factory Racing, but with the addition of co-sponsor Segafredo, the team became Trek-Segafredo. That meant updating the logos on all the trucks, jerseys, and bikes. Here’s a mechanic using a sticker to cover up last year’s Trek Factory Racing branding with the updated team logos.


Chain Tamed
Morgan Blue is not a well-known brand in the USA, but the company supplies cleaning, lubricating, and maintenance products to 10 of the 22 teams—Movistar, Katusha, Tinkoff, Dimension Data, Cannondale, FDJ, Lotto NL Jumbo, Etixx, Ag2r, Giant-Alpecin—in the Tour. This chain keeper is simple—a bolt, wing nut, and plastic roller—and effective; it sells for about seven bucks.


Weight for It
According to UCI rules, all bikes in the Tour must weigh 6.8 kilograms or more. With a modern carbon race frame and high-end components, it’s not difficult to dip under that number. Prior to the start of the first stage, it was common to see team mechanics checking the weight of the bikes, especially that of a high profile rider like Astana’s Fabio Aru.


Essential Footwear

The mechanics of the Tour spend a lot of time washing things. The race bikes are washed after every stage; the spare bikes are washed regularly, and the team vehicles are washed often also. With all that time spent splashing around in water, a good set of wellies are an essential part a mechanic’s wardrobe.


Works for Everything

Three of the most common and essential tools of any Tour mechanic’s collection: electrical tape, duct tape, and a toe strap.


Don’t Tell the Sponsors
Based on what I saw in the tool boxes, and regardless of the official team tool sponsor, Beta is very popular among team mechanics. One mechanic—who is officially supposed to use another brand of tools—referred to the brand as “the Snap-On of Italy,” and had a treasured set of Beta hex wrenches he purchased many years ago, at the urging of his mentor, that he still relies on almost daily.


Within Reach
Why a Garmin mount on a bike stand? So the mechanic can easily reach the head unit when pairing and calibrating a power meter.


Plug it In
Bora-Argon 18’s mechanics added this plug to a folding ruler for quick and precise saddle height checks. The plug fits into the crank arm’s mounting bolt, and keeps the bottom of the rule securely centered while the mechanic eyeballs the measurement.


Which Wheel
The Lotto NL-Jumbo mechanics have a very simple system for designating which wheels are the primary race wheels, and which belong to the spare bikes. If there’s a zip tie on the hub, the wheel belongs to a spare bike.


Where to Use Bike Lubricant


For some, bike lubricant is an unglamorous necessity. But for obsessives, it transcends the utilitarian function of keeping moving parts moving, and becomes the bike-maintenance equivalent of wine—lube snobs, like fine-wine connoisseurs, value quality over quantity. Either way, the bottom line is that without the proper lubes applied to the right places, your ride will come to a screeching halt. Here’s how to lube your bike’s moving parts.

CHAIN Without Lube: A dry chain will let out an ear-piercing squeal and won’t shift gears smoothly. Eventually, it will rust, and it could snap midride. Lube It: Soak a clean rag with degreaser, such as Pedro’s Pro-J Professional Citrus Degreaser. With your bike in a work stand, grasp the chain with the rag as you backpedal to remove grime from the rollers and side plates. Repeat until the chain is clean. Then, dry the chain using a clean rag and the same technique you used to clean it. To apply lube, deposit a drop on the top of each link as you slowly backpedal for a few revolutions, so the lube has a chance to work its way in. Wipe off excess lube—if you don’t, it can attract more dirt to your chain. Use a light, waterproof lube such as Boeshield T9 Waterproof Lubrication. For wet-weather conditions, try Pedro’s Chainj. Never Use: Motor oil—it contains acids and particles of metal that can compromise a chain’s strength and cause it to wear more quickly.

CLIPLESS PEDALS Without Lube: Engagement and disengagement won’t be as smooth as it should be, and pedals may become impossible to remove from your bike. Lube it: If your clipless pedal system has a visible spring (the area where your cleats engage into the pedal), apply a drop of T9 every few rides to keep it rust-free and working well. Spread a coat of grease, such as Phil Wood Waterproof Grease on pedal threads every time you install pedals so they’ll budge the next time you go to remove them. Never use: Grease on the pedal springs. You’ll gum up the mechanism.

CABLES Without Lube: Cables won’t glide through housings as smoothly, which negatively affects shifting performance, and they’ll be more prone to rusting in wet conditions. Lube it: Shift the rear derailleur to the easiest gear/largest cog (front derailleur to the hardest gear/big chainring). Then, without pedaling, click your shifter to upshift to the hardest gear/smallest cog (or the small chainring in front). This will result in a nice amount of cable slack, and on some bikes allow you to slip the housing out of the slotted cable stops and coat the cables more thoroughly. Apply a few drops of T9 to your fingertips and slide them along the length of the cable until it’s covered in a thin film. Wipe dirt from your cables, paying special attention to where they run through the cable guide underneath the bottom bracket. Use the same lube and method of application on your brake cables. Never Use: WD-40–it’s a solvent, not a lubricant. If your cables and housings are so gummed up that you need a solvent, you’re better off replacing them than performing ghetto maintenance on them.

PIVOT POINTS Without Lube: The points on which the individual parts of your brakes and derailleurs pivot will not move as smoothly and will invite rust. Lube it: Drip T9 onto each pivot point (rear derailleur; front derailleur; rear brake; front brake) every few months (more if you ride in wet conditions) to keep them protected and working well. Wipe off excess lube so it doesn’t attract dirt. Never Use: Lubricant on brake pads, rotors or rims. If you do, you’ll have a hard time slowing or stopping. If you get lube on disc brake rotors or pads, you’ll most likely be shopping for new pads.

DERAILLEUR PULLEYS Without Lube: Not only will you go crazy trying to track down the cause of that annoying squeak (commonly caused by neglected derailleur pulleys), but also the pulleys won’t rotate freely. Lube it: Wipe off any built-up grime on your derailleur pulleys with a clean rag and degreaser. Then apply a small drop of lube, such as Phil Wood Tenacious Oil, to the bearings at the center of the pulley. Backpedal a few revolutions, then use a clean rag to wipe off any lube that didn’t work its way into the bearings. Never use: Grease—it’s way too heavy for this application, and it will gunk up pulley bearings and attract crud.

How to lube your chain (video)


What you need

Chain lubricant
How to lube your chain

1. Make sure your chain is clean. This can be done either with a quick spray of degreaser if the chain isn’t too dirty, or with a chain cleaning tool if it is in need of a more thorough clean.

2. Choosing the right lube is really important. In the winter when it’s raining and the roads are covered in muck then you should be using a wet lube, while in the summer a dry lube would be the one to go for. Give the lube a quick shake before you use it, making sure that the various elements in the lube have not seperated since the last time you used it.

3. Apply the oil to the inside of the chain by rotating the cranks backwards, giving the chain a couple of passes through the oil to ensure proper coverage. Then put the bottle aside and work the lube into the chain by continuing to rotate the cranks.

4. Once you’ve done this, wipe off any excess lube from the outside of the chain using a rag, which will help to stop the chain from attracting dirt.

View video here >

JET Roll releases 12-gram tool roll

JET Roll has added an ultralight model to its tool wrap range. The JET Roll Hypersonic X-15 weighs just 12 greams without its strap. To save weight, it lacks the two-button closure of the standard Jet Roll Hypersonic.

The special edition JET Roll X-15 model includes a lightweight black nylon strap with metal buckle and two JET Roll Tube Bands, and is available in Vapor White/Neon Orange and Vapor White/Neon Yellow.
The JET Roll Hypersonic X-15 model is available in the Black Project Division section of the JET Roll shop.

MSRP is $50.

More information at

Busted a Garmin Mount? There’s a Simple Fix

By now, Garmin’s Edge computer units are ubiquitous in the sport of cycling. On any group ride, you’ll see more than a handful, because they’re great computers whether you’re using heart rate, power, or just the included functions.

But there’s a weakness: The tabs on the quarter-turn mount are made of the same plastic as the lower half of the device body, which is a one-piece mold. Through crashes, rough handling or even years of wear and tear, eventually the mount tabs, or ears, can break or round off. Then you’re stuck with an unmountable computer.

While Garmin itself hasn’t changed much on the tab design over the years, there’s now a simple DIY fix that can repair broken mounts. This past January, Dog Ears, a side project from Utah-based machinist Kent Carlsen, debuted a machined aluminum replacement mount called the GPS.

There’s some installation required. It’s basic, but involves screws (included) and an adhesive like epoxy or Loctite (not included), so it’s best if you or someone who’s reasonably handy does it. And yes, it’ll probably void whatever warranty you have left on the device itself.

But the Dog Ears GPS mount costs just $20 (plus about $4 shipping to US addresses) and the company says that, in the unlikely event you manage to break one of its mounts, it will send you a new one, free.

We haven’t tested the Dog Ears mount yet, but the product sounds promising: a simple, inexpensive fix to a known problem that plagues an expensive piece of gear.

Check it out here


How To Protect Your Frame

Applying protection to the downtube or anywhere else on your bike it a great way to protect your investment and prolong the life of your bicycle. Adhesive protection is most commonly used on the underside of the downtube and drive-side chainstay. Either way, you can surely prevent anything from a paint chip to a frame crack with frame protection. And it’s a rather simple process too!